Rosa Khutor in the Himalayas
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Rosa Khutor in the Himalayas

News  
12-09-2022
 
Source: Rosa khutor
The high-altitude mountaineering team of the Krasnodar Territory conquered the seven-thousander in the Himalayas - Annapurna IV. At the top of the mountain, the flags of Russia, the Krasnodar Territory and the Rosa Khutor mountain resort were installed. Andrey Dergachev, an engineer of the Sochi mountain resort's Avalanche Service, conveyed such a peculiar greeting to the Himalayas from the Caucasus Mountains. He turned out to be one of two Russian climbers who climbed the seven-thousander this time.

The Fifth Himalayan Expedition of the High Altitude Team of the Krasnodar Territory, consisting of 14 participants, started on October 12th. Her goal was to climb the summit of Annapurna IV (7525 m). The Russians climbed in the traditional style, acclimatizing along the route, fixing railings and setting up camps. At the same time, the team worked without the help of high-altitude porters. As a result, on the way to the summit, the climbers set up 5 intermediate camps, the transitions between them took 5-6 hours. The ascent itself took 25 days and not everyone was able to overcome the entire path, although initially all members of the expedition set themselves such a goal.

Annapurna IV, part of the Annapurna massif, is isolated from other peaks of its group by a large saddle. The first ascent to the summit on May 30, 1955 was made by the Germans Harald Biller, Heinz Steinmetz and Jurgen Wellenkamp from the former West Germany. Until 2022, out of 98 expeditions to Annapurna IV, only 32 reached the summit, including 27 participants on the northwest ridge. Others climbed along the north face - east ridge route. Before the current ascent of the Russians, the last successful expedition to Annapurna took place seven years ago, in 2015.

Krasnodar also walked along the northern wall and made more than one attempt to conquer the summit. As a result, on November 13, the seven-thousander still surrendered to two climbers - Alexander Eliseev and Andrey Dergachev. Once on Annapurna IV, they unfurled the flags of Russia, the Krasnodar Territory and the largest mountain resort in our country - Rosa Khutor. As Andrei Dergachev noted: “The most difficult thing was already at the top - it was a constant feeling of cold and a very strong wind. We had to “catch” the right weather, and at some point we were finally lucky.” He noted that the climb to Annapurna IV is considered quite difficult even compared to the climb to the eight-thousander, so "it is rarely visited."

Engineer of the Rosa Khutor Avalanche Service Andrey Dergachev has 30 years of mountaineering experience. He also has the eighth highest eight-thousander in the world - the Himalayan mountain Manaslu I, as well as the famous Russian peaks - Elbrus, Kazbek and Belukha. Climbing skills help Andrei at work, as his competence includes the maintenance of the resort's weather stations, which are located high in the mountains. He also noted that the Rosa Khutor resort perfectly understands the importance of good mountaineering training for rescuers and avalanche workers working here and provides the necessary training and training.

The highest point of the resort "Rosa Khutor" is the top of the Stone pillar - 2509 meters above sea level. There is an idea someday to build an official climbing route here. And Andrey Dergachev's future plans include the next ascent - perhaps it will be the fourth eight-thousander in the world, Mount Lhotse in the Himalayas.
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