The ancient Russian city of Kostroma is gradually becoming one of the most popular destinations for winter tourism. EcoTourism EXPERT has figured out the reasons for the popularity of the ‘cheese capital’ of Russia and found out why this city is very similar to Moscow.
I would like to start with the last question. Moscow and Kostroma are similar not only because the cities were first mentioned back in the 12th century. Like Moscow, Kostroma is divided into two parts by a river. And just like the capital of Russia, Kostroma is located on seven hills.
Getting to Kostroma from Moscow is quite easy today. The vehicle GPS leads a traveler along the toll section of the M-12 highway to the city of Vladimir, and then along the road to Suzdal, Ivanovo, and soon, a traveler can see the lights of Kostroma shining ahead. Those who travel by car should know that the road works to expand the highway from Vladimir to Suzdal are in progress. It is difficult to drive along this highway in the evening as not all the road sections are well lighted, and the four-lane highway often turns unexpectedly into a two-lane one.
Kostroma is famous for several traveler attractions. First of all, the city is associated with fairy-tales because it is the ‘birthplace’ of Snegurochka (The Snow Maiden, also called the Ice Maiden), who became the granddaughter of Father Frost (called Grandfather Frost in Russia) thanks to famous Russian writer Alexander Ostrovsky, the author of the fairy tale written in 1873 when he stayed in the Shchelykovo estate in the Kostroma Region. Snegurochka lives in her own terem, specially built tower house in the city, and guests visit her all year round, both in winter and in summer. Of course, the excursions are popular mainly with children and they are all guided ‘group tours’, tourists are not allowed to walk around the terem with their own family only.
The prices cannot be called budget. The so-called ‘fairytale package’ that includes a visit to the tower house’s rooms and the ice room where visitors are served mead (honeywine) directly into ice glasses and those who wish are served fruit soft drink; the drink costs 790 rubles for an adult and 690 rubles for a child of any age from three to 16 years old. However, adults can visit the ice room only, for 450 rubles.
From the Snow Maiden’s tower rooms, visitors can walk for 40 minutes along the authentic Lenin Street, which was previously Eleninskaya (after of the Grand Duchess Elena Pavlovna), to the Cheese Market, another ‘delicious’ attraction of the city of Kostroma. By the way, it’s possible to get to the market also by taxi, the cost of a taxi trip in Kostroma is not high and rarely exceeds 200 rubles, but it is still better to take a walk.
The fact is that it is here that the old buildings have been preserved, which attract many tourists who like this city located on the both banks of the Volga River. They include the Chapel of Saint Boniface the Martyr built in the area of the Liquor Producing Factory in Kostroma. Orthodox Christians traditionally say prayers to this saint for deliverance from the vice of drinking to excess. The wooden Men’s Gymnasium 2 awaiting its restoration is also among the old buildings, as well as the residential buildings from the early 19th century built in the classical style, and the guardhouse located a little closer to the city center.
The Cheese Market, a must-visit place for every traveler who likes cheese, is also located in the historical building of Trading Rows. Their stone façades were made in the late 18th century, and before that, the buildings were wooden. By the way, the Trading Rows in Kostroma are among the oldest trading premises in Russia, operating continuously for almost 300 years.
However, the Cheese Market may disappoint some tourists. Firstly, because it has only two rooms, and they are probably very crowded on any day and at any time by tourists and locals, so buyers should be prepared to stand in long line to buy cheese. And secondly, the prices for cheese are not attractive. Those who go to Kostroma to buy cheap cheese can be disappointed and should be prepared that the cost of their favorite product is determined by supply and demand, the spirit of the place itself and the fact that cheese is a tourist product for the city.
Nevertheless, it is worth buying one of the city’s iconic brands of cheese, for example, the ones that are called after two local heroes, Susaninsky cheese and Romanovsky cheese. One of them is similar to Maasdam, Emmental-style Dutch cheese, and the second brand tastes like Italian hard cheese Parmesan. And it must be said that the taste of both cheese varieties is good - rich and very pleasant.
Now, after tasting some varieties of cheese, tourists can pay a ‘visit to those who are depicted on the cheese labels. It’s not a long walk from the Cheese Market to the monument to Susanin, just a few dozen meters.
By the way, there are usually very many tourists near this monument, especially on weekends, and no wonder, because Ivan Osipovich Susanin is a legendary peasant from the village of Domnino (modern Susaninsky District of the Kostroma Region). He is a truly national hero who saved the newly elected Tsar Mikhail Fedorovich Romanov from the detachment of Polish-Lithuanian invaders in 1613.
By the way, tour guides also tell an alternative version of his feat. Despite the fact that there are four charters issued in 1619, 1633, 1644, and 1691, which indicated the privileges and benefits for the descendants of the hero who gave his life to save tsar Mikhail Fedorovich, none of them describe the feat itself. It is only mentioned that Ivan Susanin knew where Mikhail Romanov was but did not tell a word and was tortured to death by ‘Polish and Lithuanian people’.
Nevertheless, the lack of description of the feat does not take from the merit and importance of Ivan Susanin’s heroic deed. Therefore, the Holy Trinity Ipatiev Monastery, located three kilometers away from the city center at the place where the Kostroma River runs into the Volga River, is really a must-see attraction.
Having paid 300 rubles for entry to the monastery, tourists can walk around its courtyard. But they should see much more: according to legend, the monastery was founded by the Tatar murza (one of the Tatars’ hereditary nobility) Chet, who fled from the Golden Horde, converted to Orthodoxy and took the name Zachariah. This man is also considered the founder of the Godunov family (The Godunovs were a Russian noble family originating from Kostroma, a dynasty of the Russian tsars. The Godunov family included 2 tsars and 1 tsarina - ed.). The Godunov family patronized the monastery very seriously, and there are many their gifts in the museum exposition displayed in a separate building; the collection included ancient icons of the 16th century and the real gilded doors of the Trinity Cathedral, through which Mikhail Romanov entered the Cathedral in 1613, and left it as a tsar.
The climate of Kostroma in winter usually is good for short walks only, therefore, a large number of attractions can be visited in a warm season, for example, the restaurant ‘Old Harbor’. It was here that some scenes of the film ‘Cruel Romance’ based on Ostrovsky’s play ‘The Dowerless Girl’ were filmed. And probably, tourists sitting at the restaurant’s table can enjoy the most stunning view of the beautiful Volga River covered with snow in winter.