In the global spice markets, real cinnamon is forced out by its substitute - cassia
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In the global spice markets, real cinnamon is forced out by its substitute - cassia

Expert Reports  
01-20-2020
 
Real cinnamon grows in India and Sri Lanka only, and the one that comes in huge quantities from China, Vietnam and Indonesia is, in fact, its substitute, according to the Indian experts. And cassia - that’s what the tree is actually called, the bark of which is used to prepare a substitute of an expensive spice - not only has a stronger taste and flavour, but it is also dangerous to health!

Fighting against adulteration  

In 2008, the Indian Spice Council proposed that the government should include cassia in the list of goods prohibited for import, but the decision on this issue was postponed every time. Despite the fact that on November 26 last year, the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India finally issued a notice banning the wholesale and retail sale of cassia, its bark is still supplied in large quantities to the country. Last year alone, India imported 19,405 tonnes of cassia totaling over 2.42 bn rupees (about $37 mn).

As a result, manufacturers of spices and medicines in India increasingly yield the temptation to buy the foreign cinnamon: for example, according to industry sources, 70 percent of Ayurvedic medicines should contain cinnamon, but a significant part is replaced by cassia, which is much cheaper. Even worse is the situation with the spices sold, especially when it comes to powdered cinnamon. An experienced housewife is able to distinguish pieces of bark, but it is much more difficult to do when it is powdered, it is necessary to be a specialist in recognizing aromas - a flavourist.  

“This is a bitter irony of fate - сassia has flooded the market of our country, which, more than a thousand years ago, was one of the first in the world to use real cinnamon to prepare delicious dishes, seductive fragrances and Ayurvedic medicines,” farmer Leonard John says, who owns 45 acres of cinnamon plantation in the Kannur district in Kerala.  “In our state, only about 100 farms grow about 20 tonnes of cinnamon per year on an area of 1,000 acres. Its cost ranges from 400 to 1,500 rupees per 1 kg, while in retail, the spice of the same name is often sold at a price of up to 400 rupees per 1 kg. Of course, this is cassia, not cinnamon, but everyone turns a blind eye to this fact, because the substitution brings super-profits to the manufacturers of the products, in which this spice is one of the ingredients!"

According to Rankaj Kunjakhan of the Spice Council, who is also the head of the Arjuna Natural Extract company, a large Indian importer of spices, "it’s known that large quantities of fake cinnamon are illegally brought into the country." "Another problem is that we do not have the proper laboratory equipment to test these samples," he said. Although, the Council recently managed to achieve a complete ban on imports of cassia to India, much is to be done to identify fakes and prevent their use in medicine and cooking. The fact is that cassia is high in coumarin, which can be toxic if used in big quantities for a long time, it causes headaches, hepatic and renal dysfunctions, and even cancer.

Cinnamon - the Queen of Spices

Ceylon cinnamon is perhaps one of the few spices known and widely used all over the world: it reminds us of our childhood, the New Year and Christmas, warms the cockles of our hearts with a nice flavour, gives us high spirits and strength. It is these harmonious qualities that brought the well-deserved title of the Queen of Spices to cinnamon.

This magic light brown powder is obtained from the bark of the evergreen tree Cinnamomum zeylanicyn of the laurel family, which grows on the island of Sri Lanka and in southern India in the states of Kerala, Tamil Nadu and Karnataka. Large plantations of young trees are planted there, which, after a couple of years, are pruned low, which makes them to branch heavily. After the growing season, the bark is cut off from fresh shoots, and only a thin inner layer is used, and the outer rough bark is removed. When dried, the bark rolls itself into tubes, which go on sale. Light brown sticks are evenly colored inside and outside, they are quite fragile due to their thin walls and resemble a papyrus scroll. The flavour of real cinnamon is much stronger than that of cassia, and at the same time, it is delectable and gourmet, with a touch of cardamom, and the taste is sweet and slightly hot. 

Plain sister

Cassia, or Indonesian cinnamon, is obtained from the bark of Cinnamomum aromaticum - Chinese cassia – that grows in China, Vietnam and Indonesia. For its production, 7-10-year shoots are cut off, and the bark is used entirely, together with the rough outer layer. The product yield is much greater, and the cost is many times lower. Cassia sticks are thicker, there is only one coil, and even it is not a full one, with an up to 3 mm thick layer, so it is very difficult to break it. The color is also simpler - gray or reddish, and the outside, as a rule, is much lighter. 

Cassia is less aromatic than real cinnamon and has a poor taste, but its main drawback is the presence of coumarin in it. Coumarin is an integral part of both real cinnamon and cassia, however, in Ceylon cinnamon, the concentration of this coumarin is 0.02 g per kg, while in cassia - 2 g per kg. So, if cassia powder is used in baking, a child can receive a hazardous dose by eating only 4-6 small cookies.

Professional Choice

As experts advise, to be completely sure that you bought Ceylon cinnamon, it is best to choose a stick of spice - then it can be easily recognized, especially if you have seen both varieties before or at least in the picture. In addition, cinnamon sticks are convenient to use when cooking dishes that require a long temperature treatment, such as pilaf or stew - the cinnamon sticks will give off their flavour gradually, the spice flavour will open up fully after a few hours, and will not disappear, as it happens with powdered cinnamon.

It is noteworthy that all of the above regarding the danger of high concentrations of coumarin does not mean that cassia should be completely ignored. Just the ‘plain sister’ is much better to meat and poultry dishes, since the concentration of the spice and the method of using it are safe in this case, because no one is trying to eat the whole cassia sticks, in which most of the coumarin remains, however, a more brutal flavour will emphasize that the main course is substantial. And the expensive delicious cinnamon the Queen can be used for desserts - sweet mousses and jams, cookies, rolls, pies and cakes.

In South Asia, they are good at such dishes, and now, with the autumn cold weather coming, it will be of special importance for the European countries. It is worth trying to roast, for example, a duck or a ham hock with a pair of cinnamon sticks, adding black cardamom and ginger, powdered coriander and one or two anise stars to the rich bouquet. The Indian food lovers can also flavour with tamarind and a pinch of palm sugar jaggery, and the lovers of the Chinese food - with Sichuan pepper and black sweet bean sauce. 
Pakistani lamb could be garnished with jeera, tumeric, lentils and bulgur, while a Kashmiri chicken could be flavoured with curry, plum and a fair amount of dried chili. Now you will not be so sensitive to cold, although, it takes longer to cook all this than prepare a jug of hot mulled wine, which, however, cannot not do without the Queen of spices, either.
# India