Volcanic gastronomy on the Azores
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Volcanic gastronomy on the Azores

Кратеры потухших вулканов превращаются в живописные озераCraters of extinct volcanoes turn into picturesque lakes

Short notes in the newspapers of the Azores report about earthquakes every day as of something routine. Frankly speaking, the earthquakes are often so insignificant that the people do not notice them, and they learn that again it ‘was shaking’ slightly from the news only. There is nothing surprising in this, since the Azores are one of those places on Earth where the magma comes close to the earth's crust. Just a few kilometers separate the islands from the boiling ocean of the lava. For comparison - in Europe, the average thickness of the earth's crust is 35 to 45 kilometers.

Гравюры XIX века с извержением, родившим остров-призрак Сабрина
From time to time, more serious events occur than small earthquakes. In old engravings, one can see the 1811 eruption of an underwater volcano that threw a huge column of ash and steam from the bosom of the sea. As a result of the eruption, a new island appeared in the sea. The commander of the British warship Sabrina that was nearby, immediately landed at it, named the new island by the name of his ship, set the British flag on it and declared it the property of Great Britain. Today, there are no Sabrina islands among the big and small islands that make up the Azores. This ‘ghost’ island had existed only for a month, and as a result of its volcanic activity went under the water again preventing serious diplomatic problems between Portugal and Great Britain.
 

Долина гейзеров. Для полного впечатления не хватает легкого запаха сероводорода

In total, there are 1,766 volcanoes on the islands, nine of which are active. The last major eruption occurred not so long ago, in 1958, on the existing island of Fayal, and the crew of the Soviet oceanographic ship Mikhail Lomonosov witnessed this phenomenon. Then, the volcano disgorged lava and ash for more than a year. But the ‘silent’ volcanoes gave the Azores picturesque azure-blue lakes in the mouths of the volcanoes. The close heat of the earth's interior allows using free hot water and even generating electricity by pumping the superheated steam coming out from under the ground.

But the most exotic use of the volcanic heat is in the gastronomy. For this, the nature has created an almost mystical place, which is called the Valley of Geysers for tourists, and its official name - Furnas Valley - is in tune with the Portuguese words ‘stove’ and ‘heat’- and there are reasons for this. One can rightly say that food is prepared on a volcano.

Городок Фурнаш

The valley surrounded from all sides by a flat rocky wall resembles a huge volcano crater. This is essentially a volcano that has been sleeping for at least 400 years. The town of Furnas is neat, well-tended, where very nice, pleasant people live. A hot river flows through the town, in small stores, they sell corn cooked in this free boiling water, and coffee is surprisingly cheap (perhaps, for the same reason). The slight smell of hydrogen sulfide reminds of the proximity of the ‘underworld’, which is right there, nearby.

Подземная кухня в постоянной готовности

The entrance fee to the area of geysers is 2 euros for tourists. After 6 pm, admission is free, but you need to arrive early in the morning if you want to see how the famous ‘Cozido das Furnas’ is put in the underground stove. Typically, the restaurants here begin to put it at 6 o’clock in the morning, but if a tourist group is expected to arrive, the procedure can be postponed, so that their guests could watch this and take pictures. After all, this is really a ritual in the midst of boiling and splashing geysers and the clouds of steam escaping from under the ground.
 

«Кротовьи горки» показывают места, где зарыты кастрюли

Some consider ‘Cozido das Furnas’ a ‘substantial’ meal. Yes, it is very satisfying. On the Azores, herds of well-fed, beautifully looking cows are found everywhere (there is even an expression - ‘happy Azores cows’), and there are pigs and various poultry. Therefore, there are plenty of recipes of meat dishes. ‘Cozido’ is one of these, it is a delicious stew of chopped meat with vegetables. Some more information about its ingredients: slices of beef, pork, chicken, seasoned in a marinade with some wine, garlic and pepper; cabbage leaves, potatoes, yams, carrots. Some spicy sausages are added to make dishes highly seasoned and add flavor. All this is put in layers in a pot, which is placed into a hole prepared in the volcanic ash, this hole is filled up so that one could locate the pot. It takes 6-7 hours to cook the meal in such a pot, 8-10 servings.
 

Будущий обед опускается в адскую печь

This cooking method is a long tradition. The first settlers of the islands guessed to use the volcanic heat to cook both fish, and meat, and beans. While their dinner is being cooked in the steaming and slightly smelling ‘hell’ of the Furnas Valley, the tourists can take a walk in the paradise located quite nearby. This is the Terra Nostra Park (Our Land), considered one of the most beautiful botanic gardens in the world. The park is another Azores' attraction striking the visitors by many beautiful flowers and a variety of landscapes - from the tropical jungle to fern forests of almost the Jurassic period. It is a real pleasure to wander along the beautifully made paths. Here, a man helped the nature to show its full beauty. Although, the entrance fee to the paradise is more expensive than to the geyser ‘hell’ - 8 euros.

The Azores are most hospitable from April to September when flowers bloom and the air is comfortably warm. Even in the off-season, rains and fogs alternate when the sun appears, and do not interfere too much with enjoying the local beauties.

Парк «Наша Земля» - место, где человек сделал природу еще красивей, чем она есть

Meanwhile, the ‘hell’ kitchen has done its ‘job’, and it’s time to get the pot with the meal done to turn, they take it - packed so that the meal does not cool - to a restaurant where hungry tourists are already waiting for it. One serving of ‘Cozido’ costs about 12 euros, and is as good as the full meal. Of course, gourmets would say that in the Azores’ cuisine, there are even more dainty dishes. For example, Polvo Guisado em Vinho de Cheiro (stewed octopus in a wine sauce), or a delicious Caldos de Nobos (vegetable broth) with pieces of meat or fish. Maybe, you are right. However, nothing beats the impression that you were present when the meal was cooked - without any firewood, gas and electricity; just with the help of our planet’s heat, a hearty dish was cooked for you, a delicious one, especially with a glass of good port - one more Portugal’s gift to the people.

У щедрого ресторатора одна порция «кузиду» заменяет полноценный обед

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